Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Connectivity

There is nothing that so brings an office place to its feet as when it arrives at work to find that its internet is not working or its email will not send.  People take to the hallways, the phone of the office IT person begins to bring off the hook, anxiety rears its ugly head.
 
That is, of course, unless the source of your IT woes is in another country, your designated internet service provider is a government monopolist, and your office's IT person resides on a different continent.  Then you sit back in resignation and wait for the day when it does not take half an hour to open one on-line news article or when your email does not time-out 3 out of 4 times you try to send something. 
 
Such was the case recently in Addis.  Like in many parts of the Middle East, Asia, and Africa, Ethiopia was victim to a hemisphere-wide internet problem in which the speed of the connection slowed to up to 70 percent its normal speed.  The problem has been traced to underwater internet cables in the Middle East.  Originally, the cable(s) were thought to have been sliced by a ship's anchor; now there is speculation that the cables could have been dismantled by an act of sabotage.  After almost two weeks in which it was nearly impossible to use the internet, this week is the first in which my connection seems to be back to ¨normal¨ speed. 
 
Regardless of the source of the problem, you cannot help but take sad note of the extent to which IT woes hinder productivity.  Even on days when the connection is ¨normal,¨ it is still much slower than DSL.  Compound this with electricity outages and it probably adds up to at least an hour or two of lost work time each week.    When you begin to look at this on a country-wide basis and add up hours of lost time due to faulty connectivity, it reinforces the need for technological investments in we are to decrease the divide between developed and developing countries. 
 
In the interim, like most things, you learn to adapt and hope when you have something important due or to send you have power.  Needless to say, I did not attempt to access or post to my blog during the ¨outage.¨  For those that continue to read my blog, thank you!  Please check back early next week for some new content.


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Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Language

It is impossible not to smile when you come across English transliteration, whether it is in restaurants and cafes, on street signs and billboards, or in everyday correspondence. For instance, at one café we frequent, you can choose between a plain burger or a ``chess`` burger. Or you can try the ``mixeed salad`` with ``green paper`` and ``greeted carrot`` with, perhaps, a ``scup`` of ice cream for dessert. If that doesn’t suit your fancy, you can ask for a menu with ``pizza and other deferent items.`` And if you want to do some serious jogging at the gym after lunch, you will probably want to avoid the treadmill that is marked ``For Begineers.``

New Roommate

January 15, 2007

It is official: I have a roommate! After living with three fantastic roommates in Washington, D.C., it has felt a bit odd living by myself, so I am thrilled to have the company. Upon meeting Laura, who is from the UK, I knew we would get along splendidly, and I appreciate her use of gems of phrases such as ``What do you fancy?,`` ``That’s wicked,`` and ``Bloody hell.`` Laura just finished up an M.A. program in international development at the University of Bristol in the UK and is presently looking into PhD programs. Our schedules align quite nicely, and we head off to the gym in the morning before work and tend to end the day either going out with friends, reading or doing our respective work, or watching episodes of Grey`s Anatomy on DVD as we enjoy a dinner of breads and fruits and, occasionally, tedj. It is a good living situation. I feel lucky.

The travel to Addis did not dissuade Laura from diving in her first day in the city, so in the evening, after I went to Nardos`s house for a bit to help her edit the English of a paper she is writing, Laura and I went to the Hilton for a happy hour with some expat acquaintances of one of her friends from the UK. At the Hilton, we found the group to be quite international – there were 8 of us in total, with one from the UK, one from Norway, one from the Netherlands, four from Canada, and myself the sole American. About half the group worked for the U.N. World Food Programme, while the Red Cross and the Canadian International Development Association were also represented. Laura and I got a ride home from the Hilton with guy around our age named Simon, who is one of the Canadians with the World Food Programme. It was my first time riding in one the conspicuous white U.N. SUVs that you occasionally see on the streets of Addis (a large white car with ``U.N.`` plastered in large letters all over it in a way that leaves you thinking, ``Is that really necessary?`` I liken the experience of riding in a U.N. SUV in Addis to that of riding in a Hummer in the U.S.). Nonetheless, the hugeness of the car allows it to take on well some of the ravine-like roads of Addis. Laura joked as we left the Hilton that now we know where to find all of the U.N. cars in the evening.

Random Photos















Photos: Sisters Simret and Merci, along with a house assistant, preparing some spices behind my house; Julia pouring the coffee for a cofee ceremony; Nardos and me at a cafe (though surprisingly not Kaldi`s); a somewhat blurry close-up of Nardos and me; Sisters Simret and Jordi (two of my neighbors); me with Simret and Jordi; me in traditional Ethiopian dress, which was a Christmas gift from the sisters (this photo was taken in the living room of my house)

The Kid with the Bullet in His Lung

January 10, 2007

If you have been following the international news (I know it is probably easy to get lost right now in U.S. election commentary), you have probably read about the post-election turmoil in Kenya. In short, about a week and a half ago, Kenya held a presidential election. The incumbent president, Mwai Kibaki, won, but amidst widespread allegations of vote rigging (Western diplomats cited significant election irregularities). As word spread of the election corruption, the country erupted into violence. Ethnic tensions flared and have resulted in widespread rioting, looting, and inter-ethnic attacks. Many such attacks have been directed at individuals belonging to Kikuyu tribe, which is the dominant tribe in Kenya and that of President Kibaki. Subsequently, the Kenya police have been attacking the ethnic group to which the opposition leader belongs. At least 300 people have been killed thus far, and it seems that the situation is particularly volatile in poorer areas of major cities. Western diplomats have been working to placate the situation--even President Bush and Senator Barack Obama, who has familial ties to Kenya, have made calls to Kenya`s President and opposition leaders--but it seems unlikely that the President will step down. Not surprisingly, the Kenya election office, which has ties to the government, has refused to hold a vote recount. In the absence of any checks on government power excess, people are left to take to the streets to make their voices heard. Unfortunately, however, in Kenya’s case, this has resulted in inter-tribal violence instead of the people uniting against the corruption of the government. Kenya is known for being one of the most stable and economically vibrant countries in East Africa, and it is a hub for business, tourism, and international aid work. Since the election, however, it is estimated that the country has lost over one billion dollars in business and tourism revenue. Further, the violence has also disrupted the supply of food, oil, and aid to countries such as Sudan and Uganda. There is hope among both Kenyan nationals and expatriates that the situation will not significantly set back the country’s economic development and its reputation as a leader in the Horn of Africa. (If you are interested in reading more about the situation, here is a link to some recent New York Times articles).

Interestingly, although Kenya is Ethiopia’s neighbour to the south, it does not seem like a lot of people here are talking about the situation in Kenya. Though not of the same intensity, there was also some post-election turmoil in Ethiopia following the elections the country held in 2005 (as in my blog I am making an explicit effort to remain politically neutral, I will not discuss this in any further detail for a number of reasons). At some point, in the course of riot crowd control in Addis, a bullet became lodged in the lung of a little boy, at the time age 7 years. He was taken to the hospital, where the doctor sewed him up but left the bullet inside of him. Today, the boy is at an orphanage intended primarily for children living with HIV/AIDS that is located in the northern part of Addis Ababa.

Last night, over Ethiopian dinner at a local restaurant, my friend Emily told me about meeting the boy (who is now nine) at the orphanage. She said it was shocking to look at the x-ray of the boy’s chest and so clearly see the bullet in his lung. At one point during her visit, which Emily stated was quite emotional for her, the boy went over to a sink basin and started retching into it. He then calmly cleaned the sink and himself and rejoined the group. The retching is something that occurs up to several times each day. Presently, doctors are trying to find someone who will operate on the boy and remove the bullet. Another extreme case among extreme cases.

Emily told me that the HIV/AIDS orphanage is surprisingly quite nice compared to the Mother Theresa Orphanage (see the blog post below on the Mother Theresa Orphanage and Clinic), particularly given the fact that they are somehow connected. This inevitably led us to discuss the conditions of some of the children here. Emily noted that the children at the HIV/AIDS orphanage are like any other children, and they were playing and singing when she arrived. The AIDS anti-retrovirals allow them to lead increasingly long and healthy lives and, upon seeing most of them, one would never suspect that they are infected with HIV (most become infected from an HIV positive mother during the birthing process). Not surprisingly, and unfortunately, these children are also not readily adopted. Emily and I also discussed the conditions at the Mother Theresa Orphanage and continued to try to assess why the orphange is like it is (something that continues to be a bit baffling). There is an important issue of moral obligation, which is no less pertinent in the U.S. but from which it is difficult to hide in a country like Ethiopia. At which point is a situation startling enough that you are morally compelled to act? In a place with so many extremes, how does one determine how to spend his or her time and resources? Can one confront a situation like a boy with a bullet in his lung or a neglected child at the Mother Theresa Orphanage and in good mind and heart walk away?

Christmas in Addis, Take Two

January 7, 2008

You may recall from a previous post my comments that it just did not seem like Christmas in Ethiopia due to the lack of decorative touches around the city. That all changed a couple days ago when wreaths, traditional grass, plastic Santa Claus decorations (in spite of the fact that the tradition of Santa Claus is not celebrated here), Christmas trees, and Merry Christmas signs miraculously sprouted up across the city. Somewhat logically, I guess, people choose to put up decorations a couple days before the holiday rather than a month before the holiday. When I went to the grocery store yesterday (the day before the Ethiopian Christmas), I encountered a Christmas tree and traditional grass spread across the floor. The security guards ushered me in to take a seat in the store entrance on a tiny woven stool, near which a woman was preparing complimentary traditional Ethiopian coffee. So I sat in the store entrance on the tiny stool drinking coffee, which actually provided a much needed start to my day.

Ethiopian Christmas ended up being a lot of fun. In the morning, I took a mini-bus out to the Mercy Ministry Children’s Home to spend the morning with the children. The children were in good spirits and all had little cars in hand that they were given as gifts. They were excited to show them to me. After Mother Theresa’s Orphanage, it was uplifting to see a group of seemingly happy, healthy, and well-adjusted children. As the children watched a special Ethiopian Christmas broadcast on TV, I helped the MMCH staff set up some Christmas decorations, including a tree and lights. I also had the chance to meet the Director of the Home, his wife, and their adorable three-month year old daughter. I have been so impressed with the entire staff of the MMCH; they are all incredibly kind, compassionate, and dedicated people. The Home right now has eight children in residence, all of whom are either orphaned or come from families who have said that they do not want the children or cannot take care of them. It also provides school fees and support for about another 20-30 children. There are 5-6 children that have an immediate need to be brought into the home. Unfortunately, the home is operating on a shoe string budget and cannot really afford to take in the kids at the moment. Even the staff members are not taking in any salary, which, to me, is indicative of their commitment to this endeavour. I really like the model that the Home is using; I like the fact that the individuals that run it are Ethiopian and in it for the long-haul, and I love that when you walk into the Home it feels like a home and it has a distinct spirit to it. In going over the budget with the Director, it is apparent that it takes about $15,000 per year to operate, including the support for children outside of the home, and with an extra $5,000-10,000 it can scale up operations and bring in more children. These seem like very reasonable numbers to me (to put it in different terms, if 20 churches were to raise $1,000 each, this would provide support for somewhere between 40-50 children per year). It is easy and fun to volunteer, but it is much harder to leave something that is sustainable, and makes more of a difference in the long term. I think this is a case in which that extra effort is needed.

Following breakfast, I hung out with the kids for several more hours. During this time, many of them read me stories to practice their English (they are good readers!). They took particular delight from a book on animals that had different textures in it meant to simulate what the animals feel like in real life as well as from a book on dinosaurs. The kids also sang me some songs. Really, they are very sweet children.

In the afternoon, I went with Eyob, one of the staff members who has become a friend of mine, the Director of the Home and his wife (Eyob`s sister) and their baby to Eyob`s home for cake and coffee. I was greeted by Eyob`s mother, father, and little pointy-ear dog Pico, and all of us sat around eating cake and watching the Dr. Phil show (the situation of the day was a 30-year old woman who became engaged to a 19-year old guy without a driver’s license after only dating him for two weeks). Every few minutes, the living room filled with the murmuring of Amharic as everyone discussed/analyzed/interpreted what was going on Dr. Phil. Dr. Phil`s line of the day was, ``If someone thinks this is okay, then some village is missing its idiot,`` which got a good laugh out of everyone. In addition to watching Dr. Phil, I also had the chance to look at some family pictures of Eyob`s sister’s wedding and of the baby (in every home I have visited thus far, people have showed me their family photos and/or family videos).

Following Eyob`s house, I went back to central Addis to meet up with Nardos and go to her house for Christmas dinner. This was my first time to her home, and it was nice to meet her mother and father. We watched some Amharic music videos and some family videos and had a big dinner of injera and a number of meat dishes (this was my second time eating a meat dish since coming to Addis—my diet right now is vegetarian unless confronted with a situation in which it would be considered rude not to at least try the meat dish). It was very nice spending time with her family. I really love the opportunity to go to people’s homes here because you get the opportunity to see and understand the culture and tradition in a new light. Following dinner, I returned to my home just in time to spend another Christmas dinner with the four sisters, as well as have tea and coffee and give them a couple small gifts.

Whew! A busy, but fulfilling, day indeed.

(I think I forgot to mention that while going to coffee with Nardos a couple days before Ethiopian Christmas, we saw someone decked head-to-toe in Santa Claus get-up running down Addis`s Bole Road. Similar to the reaction I have when I walk by a herd of goats on the sidewalk on my way to lunch or turn around to see a donkey running up behind me (true on both accounts), I tend to smile at the oddity and then continue on my way.)

The Sheraton Feast

January 6, 2008

Very kindly, Emily invited me to join her for an all-expense-paid Sunday brunch at the Sheraton Hotel. The Sheraton is the pinnacle hotel in Addis Ababa, and one of the premier hotels in Africa. I have wanted to check it out for sometime, and Emily’s invitation provided the perfect opportunity to do so, with great company. After fasting all morning, I met up with Emily at her guest house around 1 pm, and we went over to the Sheraton together by taxi. One enters the hotel through big gates and is greeted by the towering hotel, a large, circular fountain, men in gold-laced capes, and, given the holiday, tasteful wreaths, trees, and other Christmas decorations. It is really a beautiful place.

After picking up copies of The New York Times digest (the joy of having a non-Ethiopian news publication in hard copy), we proceeded to the brunch buffet, a splendid array of salads, main dishes, fruits, and desserts. I mentally tallied my nutritional deficiencies over the last month (must eat more fruits, vegetables, and protein) and then scouted out the scenery accordingly. As we started in on our feast, Emily and I spent a reasonable amount of time discussing how much collective guilt we should feel about eating at the Sheraton after having been at the Mother Theresa Clinic and Orphanage just the day prior. The answer: it is impossible to know. It seems like guilt is a useful emotion only insofar as it is proactive rather than simply reactive. So, I guess in a case like this, we are both cognizant of the contradiction and recognize and accept a responsibility beyond just feeling a bit of guilt about eating a nice meal.

Following our lunch, we walked around the garden grounds of the Sheraton, past the fountains and down to the outdoor pool, which was packed with adults and kids. It reminded me of the sort of pool you would see at a beach resort (having never been to a beach resort this is speculative, but you get the picture). The Sheraton charges a hefty price for non-hotel guests to use its pool (around $15 on the weekend). Emily stayed to swim (she goes almost every day and has a pass of sorts) while I returned back to my neighbourhood to do some errands. Emily has been a fantastic person to hang out with, and I am sad that she will soon be returning to the States.

The Mother Theresa Orphanage and Clinic

January 5, 2007

On Saturday morning, I met up with Emily, Mabeh, and Lindsay to go to the Mother Theresa Orphanage and Clinic. Upon arriving at the clinic and saying our greetings, we walked past the many patients that were waiting to receive medical attention to an outdoor area at the back of the clinic where several foreigners were treating wounds and providing medical care. The leg of the man that was being treated as we walked by was several times larger than normal, black in color, and an entire chunk was simply missing, leaving a bloody abyss about 6 inches across and a foot long. Emily and I walked over to the orphanage, while Mabeh and Lindsay stayed behind to help at the clinic. Upon spotting the nun at the orphanage, I went to speak with her while Emily returned to the clinic.

The orphanages that will forever linger in my mind are the HOINA orphanages in southern India, founded by Penn State alumna Darlene Large, which are beautiful structures filled with color. Though being at the HOINA orphanages elicits a lot of philosophical questions, some of which I still struggle with, it is almost guaranteed that when you enter the orphanages children will run up to greet you with big smiles on their faces or that you will see them playing games, singing, or sitting and talking with each other. I did not expect the Mother Theresa Orphanage to be a replica of HOINA, but with Mother Theresa being such a high profile figure I expected to find a pleasant environment with happy and healthy looking children.

Upon looking around the orphanage, though, I was truly overwhelmed, and it took all I had to hold back tears. Even at that, I could not help a few from escaping. The children seemed to be oozing with various fluids, and many had severe disabilities. The couple playground items were set on concrete, and the children sitting on the merry-go-round sat expressionless the entirety of the time I was there (at most two hours). One child, who seemed to be covered in pus and files, lay face down on the pavement, unmoving. Everyone, including the nuns and the assistants helping with the children, was frowning and unfriendly. The highlight of the hideousness was when the security guard sent the children scattering as he chased them with a large tree branch after he saw that they were playing with pieces of a balloon. A couple of the teenage girls also donned sticks to intimidate the younger children. One little boy, probably around six years old and with minor disabilities, approached me with outstretched arms, wanting desperately to be picked up. ``No, sister,`` one of the girls said to me, pushing the boy away. ``He will eat you.`` The English interpretation would be funny if it also was not so sad. The boy had bit one of the babies and the finger of someone else and was now unable to escape the stigma of being a biter. Not wanting to lose a chunk of skin, I made sure that all of my appendages were out of reach of the child, but his sad eyes and outstretched arms continue to haunt me.

I spotted a foreigner in one of the windows of a building, and went to seek her out. Her name is Stephanie, and she is a German social worker on her second volunteer trip to the orphanage. I expressed to her that I was feeling quite overwhelmed at the place, and she said that she did when she arrived as well, particularly knowing what orphanages are like in Germany. My purpose in going to the orphanage was to inquire with the nuns as to whether I could do an art project with the children on Saturday mornings. I was told by the unhappy looking nun in charge that this was possible, and then she told me that she was busy and could not speak with me. To be fair, this orphanage is not the extreme that you find in 20/20 or 60 Minutes documentary specials where children with disabilities are perpetually chained to their beds or just given grub to eat. However, just because a place could be worse does not mean that it shouldn’t be better, particularly when children are involved. After I could not take being there anymore, I left thinking that I had just witnessed the type of place that you want to push to the back of your mind and thereafter pretend that it does not exist.

After the orphanage, I returned to, ironically, the comparatively cheerful Clinic for the Sick and Dying (actual name) to join Emily, Mabeh, and Lindsay in Dr. Rick`s clinic. Although I know that becoming a medical doctor is not in my future, it was fascinating to have the chance to join Dr. Rick and other observers in the room where he examines patients (something I would never be able to do in the U.S.). Some of the cases he sees make the various extreme ailments faced by patients on a fictional TV show like Grey`s Anatomy seem almost mild in comparison. On the afternoon in which we sat Dr. Rick`s clinic, the first patient we observed was a 20-year old man with a heart condition. As he lay down, one could clearly see the heart beating in his chest, his skin raising with every beat. Next, a young, and very cute, little boy came. He looked fine expect for his huge, round stomach. Dr. Rick noted that his spleen was enlarged to about 15 times its normal size. He prescribed for the little boy a medicine that should help bring down the swelling.

In Ethiopia, there are many cases of severe spinal deformity, both scoliosis (where the spine twists into an ``S``-like shape) and another deformity in which the spine grows away from the body, almost in a mound, severely protruding from the body (think Hunchback of Notre Dame). Rick tries to get children and adults with this condition free medical care in countries such as India, Ghana, or, in extreme cases, the United States. Doctors, in addition to altruistic intentions, are sometimes willing to operate for free on such patients because they represent the extreme in the profession, whether it is a tumor that has gone unchecked for years or a variety of other ailments. Several people did come in with tumors that encompassed half the face, protruded from the check, and, in the case of one women, completely covered her eye. Another woman came and, upon removing her shawl and a bandage, it was apparent that half her face was missing; where her check and neck used to be was now just a white, yellow and red hole. A taxi cab driver brought in his eight year old son, who has some sort of neurological problem, is unable to control his bladder at school, and relies on crutches to walk. Dr. Rick prescribed various tests for him to take in order so that he can better assess his condition. I also met a perpetually smiling 10-year old boy named Workina, who is an absolute sweetheart but has a problem with his hands that is almost beyond description. The palms of his hands have grown in large mounds (imagine if you cut open the skin on the back of your hands and stuffed beneath it multiple tennis and golf balls until your hands were several times larger than their normal size), with the five fingers on each hand protruding at odd angles. One of his hands is becoming infected and is probably unsalvageable (it will likely be amputated), while the other might be able to be operated upon. Dr. Rick has found a doctor in Los Angeles that is interested in operating on Workina provided that Workina can get the necessary documents and paper work.

Not surprisingly, many of the patients that come to see Dr. Rick are poor and come from various parts of the country. He will reimburse some of the patients for the transportation costs associated with coming to and from the clinic, and he will also assist with school fees for families that cannot afford to send their children to school. A visit to his clinic is a stark reminder of how important health is to development. My visit there confirmed that my interest is less in the medicinal aspects of health as compared to the factors and conditions that lead to poverty and poor health, as well as the economic and social conditions needed to improve health, service delivery and, ulimately, livelihoods.

Shabbat Dinner

January 4, 2008

Emily invited me to join her for dinner at the home of the doctor with which she works, Dr. Rick, for his weekly Shabbat Dinner. Dr. Rick is a Paul Farmer-esque Jewish-American doctor who has been practicing medicine in Ethiopia for 20 years. In the process, he has opened his home to many children who lack families or another place to go. Now, there are upwards of 10 to 15 children living in one of his two homes, either temporarily or permanently. Every Friday night Shabbat Dinner is held, which includes some combination of singing and praying followed by a large buffet dinner. All are invited, and there must have been close to 20 of us, including his kids, at his home. Dinner was delicious, and it was fun to hang out with the kids, many of whom are quite sharp. I spent some time helping one of the younger girls in the house, who is around 8 or 9, practice her English reading. She is extremely smart, but she has a problem with her spine that has impacted her growth. Dr. Rick is hoping to find a family in the United States that is willing to adopt her. He is especially looking for an older couple, or a couple in which one of the individuals has the flexibility to take the girl to several doctor appointments each month, as she needs a lot of check-ups to assess her progress. Another of Rick’s children, who is around 15 or 16, asked me about possibilities to study in the United States. The boy has an interest in working for the United Nations someday.

Also at Rick’s house was an Ethio-Canadian girl, 15 years old, who has grown up in Canada but wanted to do an exchange year here in Addis to get a better sense of Ethiopian culture, since this is her heritage. It was quite interesting to talk to her, as she told me the curriculum here is two years ahead of where she was in Canada (she is studying at grade level 7 here, while she was at level 9 in Canada). She is finding her studies to be much more rigorous here – for instance, she is already studying physics – and she said that she is enjoying the learning environment. Teachers in Canada, she said, spend a large part of every day just disciplining students; a lot of students come to school with an unwillingness to learn. Here in Ethiopia, she stated, education is still seen as a privilege and families place high emphasis on student achievement. It was interesting to hear her say this, because earlier in the day I came across this New York Times article that discusses how the Japanese are trying to replicate the Indian school system, which they see as being more rigorous and better preparation for their children than the Japanese school system. In reading some of the comments that readers wrote in response to this story, it was interesting to see that many of the readers commented that their education in India was much more rigorous than that in the United States. Some also attributed the difference to the strong family structure in India, which places considerable focus on education. Indian universities have also been rising in the ranks throughout the last decade and are now the destination of students from across Africa and Asia.

The common complaint I hear among students here in Addis is that while their primary and secondary schools are very strong, the universities here are not on par with their counterparts in the United States and Europe, which is why many students seek to study abroad at the Master and PhD level. The challenge many students face, however, is accessing the resources, financial, consular (visa), and otherwise, to be able to study outside of their country. In the end, the process tends to benefit a small elite of students with the necessary connections and resources. Most, however, are excluded, almost by default, from the process.

Happy 2008!

January 2, 2008

Though my New Year’s Plans were somewhat ad hoc this year and came together less than 24 hours before the New Year, I was happy to find a nice group of people with which to ring in the holiday. I joined Emily and her two classmates, Mabeh and Lindsay, who are visiting Addis for three weeks, at a fancy nearby lounge where we found a variety of both Ethiopians and Expats. It was a nice evening, and I stayed over at their guest house, a cheap place that is popular with the expat backpacking crowd and even has a large cage with two monkeys (when I arrived on New Year’s Eve, I found the epitome of travel scenes, with the foreigners all sitting around the table and playing the guitar, singing, eating and drinking). Unfortunately, the bites on my stomach and legs when I woke up in the morning suggested that in my cursory glance of the sheets I must have missed the bed bugs at Mr. Martin`s Cozy Guest House. Nonetheless, I suppose it was a small price to pay for a fun ringing in to 2008.